The days of a sleepy Nashville are gone.
What was once a quiet downtown corridor — a small strip of neon-splashed honky-tonks hosting incredible musicians who worked their whole lives to play an empty room lit by beer lights — has become a bustling business district. In this new Nashville, top colleges, country music pilgrimages to the Grand Ole Opry and tourist-friendly bars owned by today’s country (and not-so-country) stars lure some 17 million tourists annually.
But even amidst all the change, it’s still possible to taste the old Nashville flavor. Across the city, homegrown restaurateur legends are preserving a tradition of soulful cooking alongside fresh culinary talent. No wonder Music City’s food scene is the best it’s ever been.
Here’s how to nosh in Nashville like an in-the-know native.
Robert’s Western World
416 Broadway
This yellow-tinged honky-tonk is old-school in all the right ways. Cowboy boots line the wall across from a sizzling flat-top griddle where those-who-know are eagerly awaiting a fried bologna sandwich while listening to the excellent house band as they rip through honky-tonk classic after honky-tonk classic. It’s the last of its kind, a relic of the old Nashville, and the only place on Lower Broadway that locals hang out — it’s even kid-friendly until 6 p.m.
Smith & Lentz
903 Main St.
Smith & Lentz started as a simple brewery focused on lighter IPAs and highly technical pilsners (a specialty of owner Adler Lentz). After a catastrophic tornado, they were able to pivot by adding a robust food program centered around a large wood-fired oven. Their pizzas are the star of the show, the slowly fermented sourdough offering pillowy crust that bridges the gap between New York and Napoli, while freshly sourced toppings add a gorgeous lift. What’s more family-friendly than pizza?
San Antonio Taco Company
416 21st Ave S.
Vanderbilt-bound college students will rejoice that there is an idyllic patio across the street from the main quad. Since 1984, SatCo has been a hangout for students and families eagerly searching for real Tex Mex (and before any Austinites get upset, this is San Antonio-style Tex-Mex). It’ll never win awards, but the smell of the fresh tortillas coming off the line wafts down the block, and every visit is a return to a quieter era of Nashville because, on that patio, time stands still.
Locust
2305 12th Ave S.
Chef Trevor Moran’s Locust is, simply put, one of the best restaurants in the country. A master of understatement, his simple but eclectic menu belies the subtlety of technique and nuance of flavor in his cooking. The dishes change frequently and run the gamut from Irish and Scandinavian to classic European, Japanese and Southern staples. The food is seriously delicious, but the miracle is how playful it is. It’s an ever-evolving experiment that welcomes all comers — including the kids. If you can’t find a babysitter, just let them know ahead of time.
Prince’s Hot Chicken
5055 Broadway
There are only a few rules for eating hot chicken like a local: Never order tenders; never order mild; and wash your hands before using the bathroom. It’s a shame that some of the most easily accessible hot chicken is the most watered-down, designed-for-tourists-only “hot” chicken. So, when locals crave it hot, there’s only one place to go: Prince’s.
Their process is its own kind of alchemy. Quartered chickens are brined overnight in buttermilk and cayenne, then battered and fried to order. When perfectly bronzed, they get coated in a liquid blend of hot oils and spice which candies as it cools, leaving a deep-red crust and soul-shattering flavor. Eating extra hot at Prince’s is a rite of passage. It’s so hot you’ll sweat thinking about it, but so good it’ll invade your dreams. All you’ll want is to get back to Nashville for another bite.
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