While the Balkans are growing in popularity, the distribution of tourists isn’t exactly even, with coastal destinations in countries like Croatia and Montenegro seeing the bulk of visitors.
But with Bulgaria in the spotlight following their Eurovision win, that might be about to change.
The competition itself will be hosted by Burgas on the Black Sea, but there are plenty of other cities worth visiting, like Plovdiv, Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited city, or Varna, the hometown of Eurovision winner Dara.
The most obvious starting point for a trip around the country is, of course, the capital Sofia.
Once known as Serdica, the city was conquered by the Romans around 29 BC, becoming the most important city in the region – Constantine the Great even considered making it the Byzantine Empire’s capital over Constantinople.
That history is fully on display alongside its postwar architecture and more modern history.
If a winter visit is on the cards, Sofia is well-known for its skiing, while those looking to relax can head to one of the public baths which use mineral-rich spring waters.
Things to see and do in Sofia
Wander around Ancient Serdica
Sofia is a city where old meets new quite literally. At Serdica Metro Station, you can step off the train and within moments be wandering around ancient Roman ruins.
Aside from the metro station, there are various archeological sites scattered through the centre of the city, including the remains of the eastern gate near the National Assembly and the remnants of an amphitheatre in the basement of the Arena di Serdica hotel.
Step inside the Saint George Rotunda
One of these archeological sites is home to the Saint George Rotunda, which dates back to the 4th century.
Inside, you’ll find Byzantine and Bulgarian medieval frescoes painted throughout the centuries, and while the church was converted into a mosque during the Ottoman rule in the 16th century, since the 19th century it has been returned to its original function as a church.
Visit the houses of worship in the Square of Tolerance
Outside Saint Sofia Church you’ll find a copy of the Edict of Serdica, the first to legalise Christianity in the Eastern Roman Empire in 311.
It’s fitting, then, that this is just a few minutes’ walk away from the so-called Square of Tolerance, where you’ll find St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Bulgarian Orthodox), Banya Bashi Mosque (Sunni Islam), Cathedral of St Joseph (Roman Catholic) and the Sofia Synagogue (Orthodox Judaism).
As with any house of worship, make sure you dress appropriately if you want to go inside any of the buildings.
Explore Sofia’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site
On the topic of churches, Boyana Church on the outskirts of the city is a must-visit, having been added to UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites list in 1979.
Praised as being “one of the most complete and perfectly preserved monuments of east European medieval art”, the complex includes a 10th-century church, a 13th-century church and a third built in the 19th century.
The frescoes inside the second church are the highlight as “one of the most important collections of medieval paintings”.
Hike Vitosha Mountain
From Boyana Church, you won’t be too far away from the hiking trails of Vitosha Mountain.
The Visit Sofia website has details of some of the routes, including one that takes you from Boyana Church up to Boyana Waterfall, but there are longer options, too.
Go on a street art tour
Sofia’s streets are covered in murals, and if you head to one of the city’s tourist information offices you’ll be able to grab a map with details of where you can find them all.
There’s quite a few in a car park near Serdica metro station, but my favourite has to be the St. George and the dragon mural near the Arte Sofia Hotel.
Or explore the city’s post-war architecture
While much of the city’s top attractions date back to antiquity, you can also discover its communist era on a walking tour of its post-war architecture.
There’s a free map available to download on the Visit Sofia website which takes you off-the-beaten-path to hotels, housing blocks and other buildings built during this time.
Love it or hate it, brutalism had a huge impact on the city’s skyline in those years.
Browse the goods at the Women’s Market
First established in 1878, the Women’s Market, or Zhenski Pazar, is the oldest open-air market in the city.
Here, you’ll be able to grab fresh produce, spices, local sweets and clothing.
There’s a board explaining the history of the market which features photos through the decades, but I couldn’t see any explanation as to why it’s called the Women’s Market. According to the Bulgarian News Agency, the name dates back to the Ottoman era, when women were only allowed to visit the local village market or ones intended purely for women’s needs.
Explore Sofia’s craft beer scene
Bulgaria’s craft beer scene is booming, and there’s no better place to explore it than Sofia.
On my visit, I went on a crawl around the city’s top bars: You can find out where I went, and follow along yourself, here.
Where to eat and drink in Sofia
Bulgarian food hasn’t quite hit the mainstream yet, so a visit to Sofia may well be your first encounter with it.
Manastirska Magernitsa Restaurant is an excellent place to dip your toe in the waters. Found within a historic house belonging to literary critic Professor Krastyo Krastev, the menu features dishes from monasteries all over the country.
I loved the nettle porridge with cheese (trust us on this one), but the restaurant staff are super helpful and will happily make recommendations.
While Vitosha Boulevard is Sofia’s most famous street, you should head to Tsar Shishman Street for less “touristy” eateries and bars.
Next time I’ll return for…
The UNESCO-listed Rila Monastery is around two hours from Sofia, but this time around there just wasn’t enough time to fit it into my itinerary.
I’d always quite like to go hiking around the Rila Lakes, but this is dependent on the weather – even when I visited in mid-May, the lakes were still covered in snow.
How to get to Sofia
Sofia’s international airport is served by dozens of airlines, including easyJet, Lufthansa, Ryanair and Wizz Air, with the latter two having bases here.
The airport connects to the city centre by metro in around 20 minutes.
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