Toxic topcoat?
Beginning September 1, the European Union has banned an ingredient commonly found in gel nail polish.
The banned substance, TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), gives nails an ultra-glossy sheen and a quick dry time under UV or LED light.
However, it has been deemed toxic in the EU after several studies have shown that it can cause fertility issues and adversely affect reproductive health.
Gel nail polish, which has gained popularity since the 2000s, is cured under UV or LED light, resulting in a hard, durable manicure.
Unlike traditional nail polish, gels create a long-lasting and high shine finish that resists chipping and peeling, sometimes for several weeks.
But the EU — which has long banned certain chemicals still legal in the US, including BHA and BHT in several countries, as well as a “yoga mat” bread ingredient — has ruled the health risks too high, labeling TPO “carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction.”
Some experts argue that the ban is a precautionary measure rather than a preventive one, as the evidence linking TPO to poor health outcomes is primarily based on animal studies.
“The European Union is banning it out of caution, since even though we don’t yet have large-scale human studies proving harm, the potential risks were enough to warrant stricter regulation,” Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist at DermOnDemand, told Wellness Pulse.
“From a medical perspective, I view this as more of a precautionary move rather than a response to strong human evidence.”
TPO is also used as a photoinitiator in dental fillings — but the European ban applies only to cosmetic ingredients.
Prior to the September 1 ban, the ingredient was only available for professional use, and at a maximum concentration of 5%. Now, howeever, the sale, marketing, and use of products that contain it will be prohibited entirely.
Nail salons will have to get rid of any existing stock, with “no exceptions, no time limit for selling products.”
The EU announced its initial decision in May of 2024, with the ban date revealed earlier this summer — but the claws are out among importers and beauty professionals who argue that the September 1 ban date does not allow enough time for them to replace their stock with TPO-free products.
TPO is currently unregulated in the United States.
Consumers concerned about the potential dangers can reduce their risk by requesting TPO-free nail products, allowing ample time between gel manicures, using a protective base coat, and ensuring the application is made in a well-ventilated space.
Research shows that more than 100 million US women use some sort of nail product — and TPO is not the only factor gel enthusiasts should be wary of.
Podiatrist Dr. Saylee Tulpule previously told The Post that the UV light used to cure the polish may increase the risk of skin cancer, while “thinning or weakening the nail plate before applying the durable gel color” can damage the nail.
While waiting between salon appointments can help offset the risk of TPO exposure, allowing gel nails to “grow out” comes with its own set of dangers, mainly a pathogen known as pseudomonas bacteria that causes the nail to turn green or blue.
Aptly called the “greenies” due to their color, the bacterial infection typically develops when gel or acrylic lifts off the natural nail, creating a small gap for pathogens to fester, especially when moisture accumulates.
While this type of bacteria is typically not life-threatening for a healthy individual, those with underlying health conditions or impaired immune systems could face lethal consequences.
The bacteria can cause infections in the chest, urinary tract, ears, eyes, skin, blood, and more.
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