When the Wall Street elite needed a place to regroup after the devastation of 9/11, they didn’t head to a private hotel suite or some nondescript office building. Instead, many gathered at a restaurant owned by a family of Italian immigrants.

San Pietro is a cozy, elegant eatery on East 54th Street just off Madison Avenue that has long served as a sort of demilitarized zone for bankers and CEOs. It’s a place where brutal competitors break bread, do deals and find common ground as they did following the terrorist attacks.

Much has happened in Gotham over the past quarter century: A succession of mayors, a rebuilding of downtown Manhattan, a…

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