Great New York restaurants aren’t easily forgotten. And when Swifty’s, the society cafe heir to Mortimer’s — which had delighted and infuriated the city’s bold face names in equal measure — closed its doors in 2016, people never really stopped talking about it.
It turned out that Swifty’s was just ahead of the trend. It reopened in Palm Beach in 2019, just before the pandemic that would see practically all of its old Upper East Side patrons make the move to South Florida.
It was all thanks to owner Robert Caravaggi, who is now for the first time expanding his once-defunct club house for the cashed-up and carefree. We caught up with Caravaggi to learn all about the new Hamptons iteration of Swifty’s and what’s become of its “millionaire bacon.”
This season, you’re bringing your ebullient Palm Beach restaurant Swifty’s to the Hedges Inn in East Hampton. It originally opened in 1999 on the Upper East Side. How do you account for its enduring charm?
“We had an excellent launch a year after Mortimer’s closed, with a wonderful, long-standing following who wanted their club to continue. We created our own mystique and style that has been enhanced through my partnership with Sarah and Andrew Wetenhall, owners of The Colony Palm Beach.”
What’s on the menu?
“Guests should expect a similar menu style: cosmopolitan American with European influence. Our menu will include an emphasis on local ingredients, but also favorite long-standing items such as jumbo lump crab cakes with signature creamed spinach and designer [Bill Blass] meatloaf. The ‘millionaire bacon’ has become ‘billionaire bacon.’ “
What’s your life like outside the restaurant and what’s your connection to the Hamptons?
“I know the East End quite well and I have many friends who either live or spend their summers there. But my wife Blaine and I live in the Hudson Valley. I am also a musician. I sing, write songs and play a few instruments in the rock and roll genre. I sometimes perform with my favorite group [Brothers of Others] at Swifty’s. The discerning audience seems to approve!”
What got you into the business?
“I got my start at my father’s New York restaurant called Quo Vadis, starting part time in my teens. It was a classic upscale European establishment that had a very grand following. My father, Bruno, taught me that graciousness in a restaurant is paramount to success. That influence served me well at Mortimer’s and Swifty’s later on.”
Do you see Swifty’s expanding beyond Palm Beach and the Hamptons?
“I do. I think our name, concept, mystique and food is a formula that diners seek out. Our regulars appreciate their long-term inclusion, recognition and familiarity. Our new regulars want the same, to be included and taken care of. Breeding loyalty through generations is very important.”
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