It comes with a side of spies.
Long Island’s newest steakhouse is a fascinating nod to the Culper spy ring, a local group of Revolutionary War double agents whose heroic espionage efforts saved the colonial forces on multiple occasions.
“As we were going through school, we learned about the spy ring and the effect it had on the American Revolution,” Scott Brittman, part owner of Culper’s 1778, which opened in Setauket two weeks ago, told The Post.
“For the most part, there hasn’t been much representation of the spy ring in the area aside from a local tour. I feel like it was a good idea to highlight and honor it.”
The new eatery is filled with Revolutionary War-themed decor, including prints of the Battle of Setauket, a print of the Declaration of Independence, a life-size replica musket, and an original US flag, to name a few.
However, Brittman’s team truly committed to the theme by tracking down and recreating George Washington’s spiced cherry brandy drink of choice, which he often carried, as per the first president’s journal.
“The Commander,” as it’s called, is served infused with lemon and cinnamon and stands among a bevy of Colonial cocktails — like Benedict Arnold’s “The Traitor,” made with vodka and, fittingly, tea.
There is also the gin-based “Agent 355,” a nod to a female member whose identity is still unknown, in addition to “The Clothesline” Ketel One libation, which pays homage to how Setauket Culper spy Anna Smith Strong sent signals by laying out her laundry in covert patterns.
“There’s been a lot of people that have come in here from different towns who are big history buffs,” Brittman said, adding that Culper’s will be closed on July 4 in observance of Independence Day.
Who were the Culpers?
Washington’s secret agents were a brave band of at least seven known members, according to Christopher Judge, a longtime educator at Oyster Bay’s Raynham Hall Museum, which is the former home of Cupler spy Robert Townsend.
Setauket native Benjamin Tallmadge led the clandestine group on British-occupied LI alongside his tight-knit allies, Abraham Woodhull and Caleb Brewster, circa 1778, the year in which the restaurant is named.
“They were all childhood friends, and they knew they could trust each other with their lives. They all agreed to stand against what they considered the tyranny of the British,” said Judge.
“You could almost say that they were the CIA of the time — and predecessor to James Bond.”
Nearby Port Jefferson native and East Setauket tavern owner Austin Roe, whose great-grandson Justus invented the retractable tape measure, was also a member.
The ring’s moniker originated from the false surname of Culper that members assumed during their subversive duties, according to Judge, who is stoked to try the steakhouse.
Townsend not only played the role of a loyalist to a tee, but also managed to stand sentry and eavesdrop on important Redcoat meetings in a homemade military uniform, Judge explained.
“Even George Washington did not know Robert Townsend’s true identity, because they knew that if that chain somehow was broken, that it would inflict potential death on the other members,” he said.
It wasn’t until 1938 that a historian discovered Townsend’s involvement after analyzing documents at Raynham Hall.
The Culpers’ greatest two victories were thwarting a British plot to annihilate the colonial economy by flooding America with counterfeit notes, and also fooling English troops into turning away from where critical French allies were landing in Rhode Island.
“The French probably would have been decimated had the British not been given false information by members of the spy ring to divert them back down to New York,” said Judge, who added that their loss would have reshaped the war.
“Not a single member of the spy network ever got caught. I would say that was their biggest victory.”
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