“We’ll have four beers… each!” cackled the men sitting across from me. It was 3 pm and we were technically still in the UK – albeit more than 10,000 metres in the air – but the stag weekend was already well underway.
It was hardly a surprise. For many, Czechia is synonymous with rowdy pub crawls, pints cheaper than bottled water, and an Amsterdam-esque level of ‘alco tourism’. Yet, with bargain flights (€60 return? Thanks, Ryanair) and an undeniable itch to tick another country from my bucket list, I found myself touching down in Prague.
I had just 72 hours in Europe’s stag do capital and was determined to have fun without touching a drop of alcohol. I decided to stay in Anděl, a busy neighbourhood in the central district of Smíchov.
It’s by no means a hidden gem, home to a slew of hotels, restaurants, and a handy tramline straight into the centre of the city – but it’s slightly too far from the old town to attract droves of party-goers in fancy dress.
How to spot Prague’s TikTok-famous nutria
My first day started early, with a morning stroll along the waterfront. I snapped a compulsory shot of the Dancing House – an architectural wonder that now doubles as a cafe and restaurant – before stopping for a caffeine hit at (A)void cafe, an insatiably popular coffee shop embedded in a vault-like embankment.
The cafe’s circular glass door offers stunning views of the water, but it all feels slightly gimmicky.
However, I’d not come down to the water for a decent flat white and pastry: I was actually on a mission to spot the equally TikTok-famous nutria. These giant rodents have been causing somewhat of a commotion in recent months, with many tourists mistaking them for beavers.
Also known as Copyu, these wild animals look like a distant cousin of the capybara and were originally imported to Europe for their fur and meat. However, attempts to put nutria burgers on the menu didn’t go down well, meaning the species was basically eradicated.
Some have found solace on the Vltava River, blending in with swans, Egyptian geese, and pigeons that are all fed by locals and tourists. Of course, you’re not supposed to feed or touch the nutria (they can get pretty aggressive and have been known to bite dogs and humans), but they’re pretty cute if viewed from a distance.
I headed early to avoid the crowds and spotted one content nutria nibbling away in a brown puddle. If you head to ‘Nutria Lake’ on Google Maps, you’ll have a good chance of spotting them, but they tend to swim off by midday.
Inside Prague’s vibrant art scene
After filling my phone’s photo gallery with candid shots of a nutria I had decided to name Nutty, I braved the narrow streets of the Old Town, filled with ethereal Gothic architecture, quaint cobbled alleys, and endless rows of souvenir shops. Swarms of tourists were gathering around the astronomical clock, eagerly waiting for its hourly display (spoiler alert: it’s quite anti-climactic).
Below the Church of Our Lady before Týn – one of Prague’s famous buildings with its jet black spikes – is the Central Gallery. This three-story museum features exhibitions from Andy Warhol, Salvador Dali and Alfons Mucha. I opted for the Dali floor, and spent a good hour delving into the mind of the surrealist painter before picking up a keepsake from the gift shop. The artist’s iconic lips sofa is here, which was the main highlight for me. Unfortunately, it’s not up for sale.
Next on my itinerary was a retrospective exhibition showcasing the ‘candid and dynamic’ work of Libuše Jarcovjáková. This 72-year-old photographer was recently featured in Vogue’s 2025 ‘Most Influential Women’ list. The exhibition – which focused on being queer in communist Prague, Libuše’s travels to Japan, and the integration of Cuban immigrants in the Czechia, was truly breathtaking and tugged at my heartstrings.
As someone who doesn’t profess to know much about art, seeing decades of Libuše’s extraordinary life laid out in black-and-white images really did touch me. The exhibition ended with a collage of photos depicting her mum’s last years on Earth, following a stroke which left Libuše to take on the role of her carer.
Slightly teary-eyed, I ended the night with an Artaud performance at the New Stage theatre, based on the works of Edgar Allen Poe. It felt like the perfect homage to Prague’s gothic ambience, made me scream in horror several times, and was absolute bliss to watch. For any ballet lovers, this is a must.
La Degustation: Prague’s first Michelin-starred restaurant
Following several days of snacking on gingerbread, a proper meal was needed. I decided to treat myself to a tasting menu at La Degustation, Prague’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, which aptly offered a non-alcoholic drink pairing.
Unexpectedly having the entire place to myself, this experience utterly blew me away.
Every dish – from salsify with egg to roasted beetroot with edible flowers – was pristinely presented, tasted amazing, and was washed down with a host of homemade juices and fermented drinks. The grape soda, which came out in an old-fashioned carbonator, was to die for, and I’ve been trying to replicate it ever since.
Is Prague ditching its boozy reputation?
Despite my initial experience before I had even landed in Prague, I didn’t encounter the swathes of unruly bachelor parties that I thought I would. Last year, the country banned organised bar crawls from 10pm to 6am to attract more ‘cultured’ tourists.
While the move won’t go down well with disorderly Brits wanting to throw up in a bin after a day of drinking, attitudes towards alcohol are swiftly changing. Ditching its boozy reputation could help Prague attract a younger crowd.
Described as the ‘sober curious’ generation, UK adults aged 18-24 are drinking less than ever before.
2024 data collected from CGA by NIQ found that Gen Z are drastically slashing their booze consumption. In fact, the survey found that 30 per cent of 18-24 Brits are drinking less than last year, while 13 per cent have given up alcohol altogether.
So if you ever find yourself in Prague, just remember: there’s much more to do than get merry.
*Libuše Jarcovjáková’s exhibition at the National Gallery ran from 27 September – 31 March. Poe is back at the New Stage Theatre from 5 June.
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