It’s not your imagination. Whether you’re scanning the shelves of your local Sephora for newness to add to your rotation or swinging by your favorite neighborhood facial bar for a complexion refresh, exosomes are everywhere right now.
But what exactly are they? And in a world teeming with miracle ingredients, what do exosomes actually do?
For starters, it’s more accurate to describe an exosome as a “messenger” system derived from the human body than an isolated skin-care ingredient like, say, retinol or vitamin C. Naturally occurring in stem cells, umbilical cords and breast milk, exosomes distribute lipids, proteins and genetic material throughout the body, and are believed to signal cells to regenerate tissue and even attack cancer mutations.
On a more superficial level, exosomes (which began surfacing in the aesthetics world a decade-plus ago and have been long beloved in South Korea) are lauded for their ability to expedite cell turnover, snatch sagging skin, fade hyperpigmentation and even beef up thinning hairlines.
But it’s the exosome origin story — i.e., the fact that they’re derived from human tissue — that understandably raises a few meticulously feathered eyebrows. Hence the influx of serums, creams and lash-builders boasting lab-synthesized and plant-derived exosomes.
Adhering to strict, self-imposed standards of “ethical biotechnology,” superstar facialist Pietro Simone recently unveiled a new line of wildly pricey exosome-laced products under the Regenesis umbrella, alongside equally stratospheric “Exosome Dome” multisensory experiences at his new West Village clinic.
Just how pricey are we talking here? Products range from $205 to $4,800, while experiences, which take place in a chic igloo-esque hut, cap off at $9,000.
And what does a skin-care junkie get for splashing so much cash? The peace of mind that comes from knowing Simone labored over a mix of plant-derived exosomes and non-vegan stem cell-derived exosomes “ethically sourced” from certified genetic banks in the United States.
Skin-care brand Beekman 1802 is going the more natural — and affordable — route with its new line of clock-stoppers powered by exosomes derived from its signature goat milk. Dubbed Milk RX and priced from $16 to $72, the range includes a sheet mask, cream and serum fueled with its proprietary Rexosome complex, which it claims delivers retinol-caliber results sans irritation.
“Unlike other brands using lab-grown or stem cell-derived exosomes, we saw that the ones naturally present in our goat milk could offer a more stable, gentle and effective way to support better-aging skin care,” says Ayesha Bshero, Beekman 1802’s vice president of creative and product development. “That insight laid the foundation for our Rexosome complex, now clinically proven to lift, smooth and brighten sensitive skin.”
But given how quickly the skin-care market churns through “moments,” are exosomes just another here-today, gone-tomorrow fad?
Aesthetician Skylar Altamari, who plies her trade at SkinSpirit’s Tribeca location, doesn’t think so.
“I believe exosomes are here to stay,” says Altamari, who’s seen a steady uptick in clients asking for them as an add-on to microneedling treatments, as well as incorporating them into their at-home skin-care routines.
Ticking off a list of benefits, including a reduction in inflammation and the promotion of new collagen and elastin fibers, she considers exosomes a game-changer. “We’re constantly advancing in technology, and I think exosomes represent the future of regenerative skin care.”
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